Chamba Rumal

BRAND HIMACHAL Chamba Rumal

The word ‘ Chamba rumal ‘ implies a peculiar visual art form that represents unique and charming embroidery done on a hand spun cloth with untwisted silken thread ,which is greatly inspired from pahari painting. The tradition of this kind of pictorial embroidery was known and practiced in Kangra, Mandi and Nurpur areas of Himachal and Basoli in Jammu that remained important centres of pahari painting. The tradition of this kind of pictorial embroidery was known & practiced in Kangra, Mandi, Nurpur areas of Himachal and Basoli of Jammu which remained once important centres of pahari painting. It is believed that Raja Prithvi Singh started d-mukha tanka art form in 17the century and later Raja Bhuri Singh commercialised the production of Chamba Rumals in 20th century. The craft vanished in other parts of Himachal but remains n Chamba.

 Preserving Chamba Rumal Art

*  HP State Handicrafts and Handloom Corporation is running two centres for imparting training in Chamba Rumal embroidery. Twenty six girls are getting six month training in these centres and they are being paid monthly stipend of Rs. 2,500

*  Self Help Groups are running 10 more training centres in Chamba in which about 100 girls are being trained in Chamba Rumal embroidery

 Raja Bhuri Singh Commercialised Chamba Rumal

Suresh Thakur

Chamba Rumal is world famous due to a unique combination of hill painting and embroidery that was established commercially by Raja Bhuri Singh in 1907. Earlier it was known as Do-rukha (The double satin stitch). According to Vijay Sharma, Padam Shree in Pahari paintings, Raja Prithivi Singh of Chamba visited Delhi nine times during his rule between 1941 and 1964. Raja was friendly with Dara Shikoh, son of Mughal emperor Shah Jahan and often visited him. Once Delhi Drabar presented ammunition, artists and draughtsman to Raja Prithvi Singh during latter’s visit.  The ruler constructed Chamba palace and many temples with their help using Mughal art. The raja later made it mandatory for women in every house to learn this art form. Raja Prithvi Singh also ensured that rumals were gifted during marriage ceremonies also. During that period women were trained in do-rukha tanka rather than educating them. Vijay Sharma says earlier only Krishna’s Rasleela and his dance in a circle were the only forms that were depicted on rumal.  As women in every household were trained in do-rukhs tanka art, Raja Bhuri Singh organised good trained women craftsman and got these rumals prepared in a large quantity. Raja used to pay a silver coin to these women as daily wage. Raja Bhuri Singh presented these rumals to high officials at Delhi in 1911 during the British era. The British officials were amazed to see these rumals. Thereafter, do-rukha tanka art form was known as Chamba rumal.

Origin of Craft

The cloth employed for the embroidery was generally unbleached muslin or khaddar. The drawing was drawn in outlines with fine brush by the accomplished pahari painters sometimes, the female embroiders would prefer to draw the patterns and figures themselves. This craft originated, developed and flourished in the erstwhile state of Chamba in the 17-18 century AD, when the fascinating art of painting was at its zenith. Thus, the image of miniature paintings was translated into kashidakari (embroidery), which took the pride of becoming the celebrated feminine craft tradition of Chamba. Since this pictorial handicraft of embroidery on the pieces of cloth employing unique do-rukha tanka was originated, developed, received wide patronage and remained in practice for a considerable period, hence Chamba’s name came to be associated with it and acquired its generic name as Chamba rumal.

Production Process

*  Visualisation of the theme to be embroidered.

*  Outlining of the initial drawing by a trained miniature artist

*  Predetermination of a colour palette to be used while embroidering the rumal

*  Actual embroidering of the rumal by women along the designs sketched in charcoal by miniature artists

Threat to Chamba Rumal

A threat is looming large on the existence of historic Chamba Rumal art form due to non-coordination between painters and craftswomen, Vijay Sharma warns. The quality is degrading as craftswomen themselves undertake the work of painting also. He points that Chamba Rumal presently portrays Gaddi-Gaddans that was never done before. Earlier only Krishna’s Rasleela and other deities were portrayed on Chamba Rumals.

GI Status for Chamba Rumal

Chamba Rumal has been registered as Geographical Indication by the Government of India. Knowledgeable people feel that it will help in preserving the fast vanishing Chamba Rumal craft.

Extinct in Kangra

Do-rukha tanka art form was prevalent in Kangra, Mandi, Nurpur, Chamba and Basoli area of Jammu & Kashmir as plenty of pahari painters and craftswomen were trained in it. However, this art form is now extinct in Kangra, Mandi and Nurpur area of Himachal and Basoli area of Jammur & Kashmir whereas it is still practiced in Chamba district.

Chamba Carries the Tradition

Raja Prithvi Singh had made it mandatory for women to learn do-rukha tanka art form rather than going for education. It was also necessary to gift rumal of this art form in marriages. As a result, do-rukha tanka art form or Chamba Rumal tradition is still intact in Chamba district. The artistic activity of Chamba rumal survived and practiced only in old Chamba state where painters continued to work even up to the present time. Women used to embroider the well composed rumal in the leisure hours as a pastime activity.

Highly Priced Chamba Rumals

It takes two to three months to prepare an excellent Chamba Rumal that can cost anything between Rs, 40,000 to Rs. 50, 000. A small Chamba Rumal costs between Rs.4, 000 to Rs. 5,000 as it takes only a week to prepare it.

Laurels for Chamba Rumal

*   National Award for Maheshwari Devi in 1965

*    National Award for Prakash Anand in 1976

*    National Award for Emanuel Sohan Lal in 1988

*    National Award for Ami Chand Dhiman in 1989

*    National Award for Vijay Sharma and Hakim Singh in 1990

*   National Award for Lalita Wakil in 1993

*    National Award for Chhimi Devi in 1994-95

*    National Award for Kamla Nayyar in 1997

*    State Award for Seraj Begum in 2012

This art form has given me a source of livelihood. I am also trying to pass on the tradition of Chamba Rumal to next generation by training them in embroidery

-Masto Devi, Master Trainer, Delhi Crafts Council Centre, Chamba

There is threat to this art form as many women embroiders portray Gaddi-Gaddan on Chamba Rumal as earlier only Krishna’s Rasleela and other deities were depicted

-Padam Shree Vijay Sharma Chamba

My proudest moment in life was when I started imparting Chamba embroidery training to women free of cost because I have been doing it for the last four decades

-Lalita Wakil National Award Winner for Chamba Rumal

Two training centres are running in Hardaspura and Chamba Rang Mahal to impart training to girls in Chamba Rumal embroidery to promote this form of art in the district

-Chander Pal Sharma  Divisional Manager Chamba Handloom And hadicraf